Kelaghayi will live

Amina Melikova, Head of the Events and Exhibitions  Department at the Heydar Aliyev Center, Doctor of Philosophy in Art Studies, Founder of the “Azerbaijan Kelaghayi Brand”. Museums are a crucial part of her work and she is constantly searching for creative inspiration. Our conversation revolved around heritage, Kelaghayi, and its relevance in today's world.

Kelaghayi is a perfect gift

“My story with kelaghayi actually began much earlier than the Azerbaijan Kelaghayi brand was born. I always loved this colorful accessory. Wearing it on top of a shirt or a dress would always give you a completely different vibe. It has been present in my life, in my wardrobe, and gifts to others. In fact it worked flawlessly as a gift. It was a pleasure for me to talk about its history since there was almost no available written information. Then I realized I wanted to reveal its identity. This is where the concept of creating a brand was born.”

Amina Melikova worked for many years at the National Museum of Art and headed the Department of International Relations and Innovation. By the nature of her activity, she certainly traveled a lot. At events where public figures from different countries gathered, she often encountered people in their national costumes.  It's both beautiful and fascinating and carries a touch of one’s mentality and culture. Due to the richness of our national women's costume, which is made up of multiple parts, it may not always be taken with you on a trip, especially if it's a short-term one full of responsible meetings. In such cases, kelaghayi was something that always came to help, she recalls.

This year was a momentous one in the history of kelaghayi. In 2014, as a result of the efforts of the Heydar Aliyev Foundation and the Ministry of Culture of Azerbaijan the art of kelaghayi was included in the UNESCO Intangible Heritage list. That year saw the creation of the brand Azerbaijan Kelagayi and its subsequent implementation.

“We started working with manufacturers, and I want to express my appreciation to Basqal producers, and Mrs. Rena Ibrahimbekova, who helped revive Kelaghayi art in independent Azerbaijan. To add to the story, she wrote the first scientific concept of the Azerbaijani kelaghayi. I would very much like to mention all the people we are still friends with, the hereditary kelaghayichys, who live in Basqal. Last but not least - no kelaghayi can be produced without Sheki silk». Prior to the Great Patriotic War, sericulture was practiced by nearly 60% of the population living in Azerbaijan. Traditional art is distinguished by bright colors because of the incredibly beautiful nature in Azerbaijan and the vision of our masters.

Kelaghayi is an amazing world for me. It is a message from my ancestors, a carrier of information, a sign of the holiday. An essential component of our art and culture in general. It is a profound understanding of life

“Getting back to branding, we went beyond embellishing this beautiful scarf. We were able to create memos describing its characteristics, including washing instructions. Since silk is a molting cloth, we felt obligated to instruct those who purchase kelaghayis on how to use it. Thus,  brochures were produced to explain the meaning of kelaghayi and the deep philosophy that surrounds it in our culture..”

For 10 years now, Amina Melikova’s team has been promoting this art, helping producers from different regions of her country. Kelaghayi is already being produced in Baku, Sheki, Basqal, Shamakhi, and several other regions and cities of Azerbaijan. Manufacturers benefit from their assistance in selling their products, and the kelaghayis are now available in 8 retail locations in Baku and Ganja (the second largest city in Azerbaijan).

“Kelaghayi is inextricably linked to our traditions. You would find a red kelaghayi ( red or raspberry, or as we call it «Morghu») in the wardrobe of most of the women in our region. Red kelaghayi is a harbinger of the holiday, and is an integral part of it. Women wear it on their day of joy. Without a kelaghayi, there is no Khoncha (editor's note: decorated gift basket or tray, which has long been a symbol of holiday and new life in many Azerbaijani traditions). It all starts with it. A woman’s first kelaghayi was usually inherited from her grandmother, her mother, or her aunt. A very significant kelaghayi of red color was given to her by her future husband’s relatives After reaching certain agreements between families during matchmaking, the first Khoncha with sweets was brought, with that red or raspberry kelaghayi. The girl intended to keep it for the rest of her life and could then pass it to her daughter-in-law. She was  wearing it when her first child was born, and maybe even wrapped it around him.”

Kelaghayi is inextricably linked to our traditions

It is true that kelaghayi has many traditions and customs associated with it. As it turned out, it has the potential to be therapeutic. “I was told by Dyers about this intriguing fact. As previously stated, manufacturing kelaghayi involves a multi-step process, and the color of the final product is influenced by the significant role of boyaghchi [dyer]. In Japan and throughout the East, red is known to be a medicinal color. Our kelaghayichys don't share that belief. While red is undoubtedly powerful and energetic, it activates a range of processes, even if some are not beneficial for our health. The red color enhances the joy of celebration just when one is overflowed with happiness, which is why the girl would wear it on a festive day. If there is a disease or illness, it is recommended to wear blue or purple. Ink, dark skies, and all shades of blue to purple are credited with having curative power. For the past decade, whenever I heard about a friend or acquaintance's illness, I would send them the purple kelaghayi and ask for them to wear it. You would have no idea how many women have been healed by this gift over the years. Call it what you want, a placebo effect or the power of faith, but it has to be the healing effect of the blue kelaghayi”

We were curious to know how the kelaghayi changed over time. “When one looks back at old photographs or portraits of  100 years ago, it is evident that depending on the time of year kelaghayis  of the “Morghu” color,” Soghana” (onion) and “Nokhudu”(pea) were quite popular. Nokhudu particularly, a pea color, often decorated with peas, was widespread and considered classic. Soghana -  the color that comes from paint that is made of onion husk The classic white with different edges is back in fashion again. As a side note, almost all kelaghayis have borders. “Khashia”. Edge, border. It is believed to be a barrier against evil spirits. That is when the Kelaghayichy paints the border, he builds some protection around you. In addition, kelaghayi, as a carrier of information that we get from another person, carries his energy. The kelaghayi of the person we love is often dressed in a way that gives us a sense of belonging and energy, and it has a positive impact on us.”

An interesting case happened to Amina once. A government official from Mexico, who actively supported her initiatives with the brand, asked: “Do you think I can present Kelaghayi to a man?”  She answered: “Yes!” without hesitation. “Every man has his own preference and can wear a silk scarf depending on what he wears. Each man has a woman by his side, whether it's his partner, mother, daughter, or friend, to whom he can offer this kelaghayi as a present with great joy. Furthermore, it presents well in any interior, and many people use it in this fashion.” That kelaghayi ended up being a huge success in the  Mexican parliament.

Moving forward with Kelaghyi's future and embracing change.

”Kelaghayi is not immune to change like everything else in the world. The last 10 years have seen a lot of new colors. We invented some colors ourselves and set the tone, something that we believe is relevant today. The modern world includes the appearance of these colors, as well as the use of natural dyes. It's now possible to buy organic paints in different parts of the world without having to cut the bark of wood. I am confident that Kelaghayi will live with the support of individuals who are committed to our culture and art. In today's world, it is almost universally known.”